Bacalhau à Lagareiro: The Recipe & Where to Find it in Porto

If Bacalhau à Brás is loved for its creaminess, **Bacalhau à Lagareiro** is the ultimate celebration of olive oil, garlic, and pure, robust flavor. Hailing from the olive oil presses of central Portugal, this dish transforms simple ingredients into a memorable experience: oven-roasted cod steaks served with “punched” potatoes that soak up all the flavor of the infused oil. It’s a dish to be savored slowly, perfect for a family meal or for discovering in Porto’s traditional restaurants.

How to Make Bacalhau à Lagareiro: The Traditional Recipe

The essence of this recipe lies in the simplicity and quality of the ingredients. The key is the generous use of good olive oil, which should almost “confit” the cod during roasting, ensuring incredibly tender and moist flesh.

What You Will Need (for 4 people)

• 4 thick desalted cod steaks (about 200g each)
• 1 kg of small potatoes (like “ratte” or baby potatoes)
• 1 whole head of garlic, cloves separated (some crushed, some whole)
• About 300ml of extra virgin olive oil
• Coarse salt and black pepper to taste
• Fresh parsley or coriander for garnish
• Bay leaves and sliced onion (optional, for extra aroma)

Step 1: Prepare the Potatoes and Cod

Wash the potatoes well. Without peeling them, “punch” them lightly with your fist or the back of a knife so they crack open slightly. This helps them cook through and absorb the oil. Pat the desalted cod steaks very dry with paper towels.

Step 2: Cook the Potatoes

Boil the potatoes in well-salted water until they are just tender when pierced with a fork (about 15-20 minutes). Drain them and let them steam dry for a minute. This step is crucial for getting the right texture before roasting.

Step 3: Roast with Abundant Olive Oil

Preheat your oven to 200°C (390°F). In a large clay dish or roasting tray, create a generous bed with the potatoes, half of the garlic cloves, and onion if using. Place the dried cod steaks on top. Pour the olive oil over everything—it should come about halfway up the ingredients. Season with a little pepper (the cod is already salty).

Step 4: The Key to Perfection: The Oven

Roast in the hot oven for about 20 to 30 minutes. Baste the cod and potatoes with the hot oil a couple of times during cooking. The dish is ready when the cod is golden and flaky on the edges, and the potatoes are crispy on the outside and soft inside.

Step 5: Serve and Enjoy

Remove from the oven and let it rest for 5 minutes. Garnish generously with chopped fresh parsley or coriander and the remaining raw crushed garlic for a fresh kick. Serve directly from the clay dish with crusty bread to soak up the incredible flavored oil.

The Best Restaurants for Bacalhau à Lagareiro in Porto

For those who want to taste an expert version without cooking, Porto has excellent traditional restaurants specializing in this iconic dish.

• Taberna Santo António: A true institution in the city center, often cited as having some of the best Bacalhau à Lagareiro in Porto. The atmosphere is authentic and bustling. (Rua das Virtudes, 32)
• O Buraco: A classic, no-frills Portuguese restaurant loved by locals and visitors alike for its generous portions and perfectly executed traditional dishes, including the Lagareiro. (Rua do Bolhão, 95)
• Pedro Lemos: For a Michelin-starred interpretation of the classic. Here, the dish is elevated with premium ingredients and impeccable technique, offering a unique fine-dining experience. (Rua do Padre Luís Cabral, 974)
• Casa Guedes: Famous for its pork sandwiches, but their Bacalhau à Lagareiro is a standout and a well-kept secret for a hearty traditional meal. (Praça dos Poveiros, 130)
• Adega São Nicolau: Located in the Ribeira district, this cozy tavern offers a very authentic and delicious version in a charming, historic setting. (Rua de São Nicolau, 1)
• Restaurante Abadia do Porto: Known for its wide variety of cod dishes, their Lagareiro is a reliable and tasty choice in a spacious, traditional environment. (Rua do Ateneu Comercial do Porto, 22)

Tips for the Perfect Dish

Keep these points in mind whether you’re cooking or ordering:

• Quality of Ingredients is Key: The taste depends heavily on the quality of the olive oil and the cod. Never skimp on the oil—it’s meant to be abundant.
• The “Punched” Potato Texture: The perfect potato should have a crispy, slightly blistered skin and a fluffy interior that has absorbed the garlicky oil.
• How to Eat It: Mash a bit of the roasted garlic and soft potato onto your fork with a piece of flaky cod. Drizzle a little of the cooking oil on top for maximum flavor.

Bacalhau à Lagareiro is more than a recipe; it’s a testament to Portuguese culinary wisdom, where a few perfect ingredients are combined with confidence. The harmonious result of silky olive oil, sweet garlic, and hearty cod is a flavor of Portugal you must not miss, whether from your own oven or a beloved Porto tavern.